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Surfing for me is being one with nature, kind of like snowboarding. Everything else you can run on land, and that’s fine, but when you are out there in the water, the water is controlling you. You really feel one with the ocean, not to be spiritual or anything. It’s a rush. When the wave is moving you down the line, it can be exhilarating. I enjoy it big time. I'm from San Clemente, California -- I like to surf -- I started when I was twelve years old and have been doing it ever since. I plan on doing it until the day I die. I love it.
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